Wednesday, December 31, 2014

Vietnam Day 2

Hanoi

We ate breakfast included with the hotel. I ate prawn dumplings, vegetables and some sort of beef stew, along with a watermelon juice. Sarah had some freshly cooked pancakes with lime and sugar. We also ate dragonfruit and jackfruit. We then headed to the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum. The hotel organised a taxi for us, however even then we later figured out he took us the long way around. At least we got to drive past the Botanic Gardens.

When we got there, we joined the long, but fast moving line that snaked around the outside of the complex. To enter the complex, you must go through security screening. We were initially directed to the line with no bags, however when we reached front, we were told that because we had bags, we needed to move across to the other line. While waiting, another group with bags got through the no bags line. We put our bags through the screen, and I was told to remove my iPad and camera, to be put in a special bag. When I did, I was told that my camera was a small one, so it could stay in my original bag. Sarah was told that she couldn't take water in, but could drink it there and then. As she started to drink, she was told she could keep it in her bag. We then checked our bags, after being told to take out wallets and phones. I couldn't check in my iPad and camera. We joined the line again, to reach a point where we had to check all electronic equipment - except phones. And except Sarah's camera, which was small. However, my camera was no longer deemed small, so had to be checked! After all that, it was a walk through the perfectly manicured grounds, in a perfectly ordered line - completely different to the chaos of life outside. You enter the Mausoleum itself in that orderly line, then are directed around a small, dark room containing Ho Chi Minh's body, perfectly preserved. He is guarded by 4 men, standing absolutely still, along with others placed to keep the line moving. You walk slowly around the room in a single direction - no stopping. I think we were probably only in there for less than a minute.
The Mausoleum

Guards in uniform, marching through the grounds
When we finished at the Mausoleum, we were sitting down with the map attempting to figure out how to get to the Temple of Literature, when we heard a "hello!" from behind us. Sarah said "hello" back, then there was an outburst of giggles and running feet. We looked around to see 6 or 7 kids running off, probably aged around 8 - 10. We turned back to our map, but could hear one of the adults in the background encouraging them  to approach us again to ask "How are you?" We then turned to talk to them, but that was basically the extent of their English, and beyond the extent of our Vietnamese, so there was just a lot of laughing and giggling, with the occasional return to their parents for safety.

As we both have no direction sense, we decided that the offer of a cyclo was too good to miss, so a poor man cycled us to the Temple of Literature. At one point there was a bus heading directly for us down a street that was really only wide enough for a bus(!) but we still felt fairly safe. The Temple was beautiful, with manicured gardens, statues and stone stelae sitting on the back of stone turtles, for the doctors that had graduated.

Stelae
Although there were a lot of tourists, it felt peaceful, and sitting in the park next door was strange, as it is surrounded by rivers of motorbikes swirling around, yet it is a pocket of peace and quiet.

Floral decorations at the Temple of Literature
We had lunch at Koto, which is a not-for-profit social enterprise that trains street kids in hospitality and English. I had beef pho, and Sarah had a beef in bamboo dish.
Lunch, along with our trusty map
After lunch, we organised the next leg of our trip, which will encompass Hoi An and Ho Chi Minh City, before we move on to Phnom Penh in Cambodia.

Finally, for dinner we went on a "Food on Foot" tour, of the street food in Hanoi. We were in a group with a Spanish couple, an Austrian couple, and an English girl. We visited about 9 establishments, sampled (too) many dishes, and all in all had a great night talking to everyone else and the lovely guide. Too many things to remember, however I did try a tiny piece of one of the eggs that has a chick inside (it didn't taste too bad, just like meat) 

Yep, I really went there...
 and we finished the night with egg coffee, which was tasty but way too strong for me at this time of night. I need sleep...
Not what I was expecting - more like a rich egg custard floating on coffee - yummy!
Tomorrow we are off early to travel to Halong Bay, so probably won't have access to WiFi for a couple of days. Hope everyone has a great New Year!

Tuesday, December 30, 2014

Vietnam Day 1

Hanoi


I woke up fairly early, after a reasonable night's sleep. Had earplugs in, because the horn tooting never stops! We started the day with a buffet breakfast at the Church Boutique hotel. I ate some smoked fish, along with a vegetable dish that the staff were unable to translate into English for me. I suspect it was something like okra. There was also a selection of breads and croissants. We girded our loins and headed out of the hotel for the very short walk to our next hotel, and our first experience with crossing the road in Vietnam! We managed admirably, if we do say so ourselves, using the advice from the Internet - just walk out confidently and keep going. Later, we also learned that you give way to buses and mostly cars - it's just the motorcycles (so very, very many motorcycles) that you weave around. For the really large intersections and 3 lane roads, they do have traffic lights, although as Sarah says, they are really more of a suggestion than an absolute!
Doesn't look busy until you are trying to cross...
 We wandered all around the Old Quarter for about 2 hours, following a map given to us by the Oriental Suites Hotel. There is just so much going on, for all 5 senses, that by lunch we were both ready to have a break from it. The hotel had suggested we lunch at Quan An Ngon, and it was a great choice. They are so busy, we were seated with some other people, one of which was an Australian lady who moved here about a month ago to work at the UN on renewable energy, funded by the Australian government. Ironically she used to work for the Department looking after renewable energy in Canberra, but it was cut in the budget.
55,000d = $3.60
After lunch we headed to the Hoa Lo prison, otherwise known as the "Hanoi Hilton". It's as awful as all prisons are, but interesting to read about history from a different point of view. They still have a genuine French guillotine on display, one of the two that were used at the prison.
Broken glass acting as barbed wire

We came back to the hotel for a rest in the afternoon, then headed out to Bun Bo Nam Bo for dinner. They only serve one dish, consisting of beef, noodles and vegetables. It was tasty. After dinner we headed to Hoan Kiem lake, which is much prettier by night than by day. 

Middle of Hoan Kiem Lake
A couple of girls sat next to Sarah. One was at uni studying to become a teacher of Maths, in English. She'd only been studying English for 3 years, and she was a great speaker. I was wearing my T-shirt, and she asked if I was cold. We'd noticed earlier in the day that all of the Vietnamese are rugged up, whereas to us it is a beautiful 20^C day, and the humidity is les than it has been at home. We are now off to an early bed, as we are still trying to adjust after arriving at our hotel last night at the equivalent of 3am Sydney time!